JAWS--THE NATURAL HIGH

In February, 1997 Brian took on one of the greatest Xtreme windsurfing challenges of his career when he tackled 'Jaws', the largest rideable wave in the world. This legendary big wave break on the North Shore of Maui was first attempted by board surfers in the 1970's, but remained virtually unconquered until the windsurfing world's finest began riding it in the 1980's.

What made Brian's attack so unique is that many others were out there that day, but 'Jaws' was not immediately cooperating. One by one, the other challengers retreated to the boat and went ashore.

But Brian stood fast and waited. Virtually alone, with no fellow challengers in the water nearby for support, 'Jaws' reared and suddenly the Irie Man had 'Jaws' all to himself.

Brian tells his tale:

A mountain of water approaches me from the sky. The killer 45 foot wave 'Jaws' barrels down my back and I am in it. Just me, my board and sail.

I slip into the barrel, and I'm free falling to the bottom of time. The rush separates body from mind and water crackles down with a thunderous bang. This is a serious borderline ride, playing with the limits of Mother Nature's pride. Yeah, man. Action!

It all began from the simple feeling of gliding through the crystal clear water, being propelled by a fresh breeze and the sound of the water splashing off the board and rejoining the sea. It gave me a natural high and I was hooked.

Now, to find the adrenaline rush, I'm motivated to challenge my ability by experimenting with more radical maneuvers and bigger waves. As I conquer new levels, I search for greater fulfillment to satisfy my windsurfing drive.

Dropping in on the massive waves at Jaws was stepping on that fine line between having complete control and going totally out of control. It's about coming to terms with consequences of being eaten alive by a 50 foot monster wave. This is the rush that makes you come alive, energizing you for days after the drop.

My experience dropping in at Jaws was fresh with every movement of water and puff of wind. At first my heart had some fear and I was intimidated by the situation--the jet skis buzzing all around, helicopters blaring overhead, cameramen peering in from all angles, strap surfers dripping in, windsurfers scattered all through the break and the, the star of the day, Jaws.

As time passes, the challengers leave, the helicopters return to base and the natural tranquility returns to this place. The mood changes and with it, confidence replaces fear and my body relaxes. I take a few drops on the smaller waves and get the feeling and familiarize myself with the break. I'm absorbing the positive vibes in the air and I'm ready to drop in on one of the set waves.

I search into the sea, then all of a sudden this set appears out in the deep blue. I jibe on to the first wave, now calm and confident, and I commit to this power ride. The further I drop, the larger the wall jacks up--I now realize I'm on a double-mast high wave and there is no turning back.

I'm fully in the pit, waiting for the section to line up and searching for the smoothest spot to drive off the bottom. My mind calculates this turn and I'm propelled toward the lip with a monster of a barrel crashing towards me. As I arc off the top of the lip, it comes thundering down with a sonic bang. The feeling rushes to my brain and explodes with excitement. The force of Jaws' breath sends spray and wind slapping me across my back, just to remind me of its power.

I slide back down the face and climax the ride, carving up the remaining shoulder of the wave. The ride injects my body with electricity. I'm pumped and my body is firing for more action.

Now I start dropping in and the confidence builds. I'm at ease with the beast. This surge of confidence could be lethal, though. I am relaxing too much. After about five more power rides I realize it is time to retire to the boat--don't be greedy, but be thankful to experience this feeling and to have survived Jaws.

As I cool my head in the boat, my mind in awe, I am floating in another world, feeling the feeling.

I satisfied my inner quest for adventure, mixing the body's chemicals to produce the natural high and smiling from the heart!

The feeling lingers for days. I find myself staring into the sky, constantly smiling and reminiscing about those power rides.